The fabulous 2017 Chablis by Thomas Pico

The face of a man who works tirelessly in the vineyard. Thomas also just returned from a market visit to Japan, and headed straight to the Les Penitentes tasting, an off-fair in Angers during the St Jean de Greniers and Salon de la Loire.


After the meager allocation of the 2015 and 2016 vintages, and supplemented by the delicious Vin de France from Limoux, which is now discontinued, we are now fully stocked with the superb 2017 vintage Chablis. This wine is a blend of sites all in Courgis, a small village in the Chablis appellation with 250 inhabitants. The other well known family and producer are Alice & Olivier de Moor, which whom Thomas share similar philosophies, and also learned from.

pattes loup bottle Cr 64 bottle

William Kelly describes it: “..wafts from the glass with aromas of fresh apple, white flowers and marzipan, followed by a medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny palate that’s racy but enveloping, with superb cut and definition despite its comparatively broad shoulders and textural profile.” RP 92 p

While this is not classic, the style is still very much Chablis, from hand harvest and natural ferment and low sulphur at bottling. It is the kind of wine that carries itself very well with modern haute cuisine found around the world, where chefs focus on the purity of ingredients, reducing butter, and giving each dish an acid lick.

Maison Sota appears to be Japanese Chalet that is set in a narrow side street of the 11th arrondissement. Currently, the lower floor is empty, leavings guests guessing what will happen in the future – a dance hall?

The produce is selected from a top supplier in one of France’s departements. Chef Atsumi’s classical training and Japanese perfectionism is seen and tasted across the small and large menu set at Euro 95 / 140. I have rarely tasted sweetbread and pigeon of this quality and cooking.

3 rue Saint-Hubert
75011 Paris

Tel: +33 (0)1 43 38 61 95 Email:

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