To quote from legendary U.S. wine importer Kermit Lynch “I consider the whites of the region, Macon, Saint Veran, and Pouilly Fuisse, to be proper white Burgundies. Here we have similar soils, the grape is Chardonnay, and the difference between the appellations are no more than passionately interesting questions of personality. Deciding whether to serve a Macon blanc or a Meursault is not a question of which is the best wine. It is an exercise in forming the most appropriate alliance between the wine and the plate it will accompany, or the environment in which it will be served.”
He continues “Macon blanc should be light-bodied, never above 12 percent alcohol, St Veran is rounder than Macon Blanc, but simpler than Pouilly Fuisse. It will tolerate a bit of new oak.” These paragraphs are from his book Adventures on the wine route, published in 1988. Of course the world today as well as the wine isn’t how it was back then. Kermit Lynch later became the importer of Robert Denogent, and the estate’s ambitions and hard work paid off, so that the family’s reputation resonates more to “These are wines of a much different class, whose reflection of terroir is one more likely found farther north in the prestigious Côte d’Or.” according to Kermit.
We suggest you try this old St Veran, which appears to be the most mineral, and decide later, if you are interested in the Macon Les Sardines, potentially sublime house Burgundy with texture, spice and honeysuckle, or in one of the two Pouilly Fuisse cuvees based on 60-80 year old vines from blue schist or clay limestone soils.
Neil Martin for Robert Parker writes “The wines from Domaine Robert Denogent are distinctive, beautifully crafted and manage to express their terroir with great clarity. You might assume that the extended time in barrel might dominate the style of the cuvées, perhaps erase some of the nuances of terroir, but they do not impede at all. The 2014 Saint Veran Les Pommards Vieilles Vignes offers fragrant scents of yellow flowers, mirabelle and cold granite on the nose: very well defined and gaining intensity all the time in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of apricot on the entry, extremely well judged acidity and a nonchalant, harmonious finish with hints of grapefruit and yellow plum. This is simply delicious. 91 points”