Vineyard with a view – Cantine Nervi

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There comes a moment in any oenophile’s life, where the meaning of wine is understood. I mean the deep meaning, where a wine touches one’s soul, not just the gustatory pleasures. It could be a Bordeaux, or Burgundy, but certainly a mature wine. For me it has been a 1985 Gaja in 1999. Enjoyed in one of New York City’s old trattorias located on the East River – the name long forgotten, but the aromas, texture, sweet richness of this bottle was one of a kind ingrained in memory.

The following years where spend chasing every great producer and try grasp the significance or difference in terroir between Castiglione, La Marro and Monforte in Barolo. Later tasted many fine Barbaresco for a little while.

Nervi_GattinaraNebbiolo when young has not become my thing, and this despite an array of top producers making their way into Thailand. It is a grape which needs time; in bottle to develop, as well as in glass to open the intricate perfume. So please stack up your cellars with so many good vintages over the last 5-7 years.

This Nervi from Gattinara will not have the finesse of the Langhe, but an honest earthiness, and soulful in its rusticity. It is coming around nicely, so try serve it coolish around 15-16C to tighten the frame, and enjoy perhaps with a nice risotto. A good one is the juicy and modern truffled mushroom risotto at Quince Eatery & Bar. Sukhumvit Soi 45.

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