Bernd Philippi
has established his family domaine, Koehler-Ruprecht, on the pedestal of German – no – all of white wines.
His specialty has been dry Rieslings from the revered Kallstädter Saumagen vineyard in the Pfalz. Often classified as an Auslese Trocken, these full-bodied and dry wines are at times hard to understand, take time to show their true self, and can remind the taster of a Corton.
He sold his estate in 2010, and recently completed his term as consultant. Now Bernd travels the world and looks after his estate in the Duero, Portugal. When in Bangkok he treats everyone he meets to fine wines; often sharing some hard to find red Burgundies from the 80’s and 90’s.
What I take out from Bernd is to look for wines which have a
strong backbone
and according to him, this backbone is made of a fine acid spine, a rich and complex fruit profile, all being held together by tannins. These wines will feel light on the palate despite its intensity and always, always taste of some minerals.